Saturday, 30 September 2017

Dr. Dennis Gross: Dark Spot Sun Defense

 50ml | £38 from here

Guys, sunscreen is soo important. Do not neglect this step in your skincare routine. Since the start of the year, I have been trying to diligently apply sunscreen every morning with hopes to reduce the appearance of sun spots and hyperpigmentation on my face and to prevent further formation. I really do wish that I had started sooner but as they say, better late than never.

I have been reaching for the Dark Spot Sun Defense by Dr Dennis Gross, a mineral-based sunscreen which provides broad-spectrum protection with SPF 50. There are two types of UV lights that are harmful for your skin - UVA (can prematurely age the skin) and UVB (can burn the skin). Too much exposure to either types of rays can lead to skin cancer. Broad-spectrum sunscreen protects you from both.

This particular sunscreen also aims to prevent hyperpigmentation with its combination of vitamin C, unique melatonin complex, vitamin E and nourishing ceramides.  


Key Ingredients
Ascorbyl Glucoside: a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C. It's not as potent as other forms of vitamin C however, still has great antioxidant properties which help to brighten the skin and reduce the signs of ageing.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): one of the most stable forms of vitamin C. Not only does it provide brightening benefits by suppressing melanin production, but it also has a hydrating effect on the skin making it great for those who have dry/dehydrated skin1.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD): an oil-soluble form of vitamin C. It was found that THD has a higher rate of penetration compared to other forms of vitamin C, even when the concentration levels of other derivatives were 25 times higher2.

Melatonin: did you know that the skin contains melatonin receptors? That's right, this hormone doesn't just play a role in getting a good night's sleep. Melatonin has been found to be a powerful antioxidant which protects the skin against UV radiation and other environmental damages3.

Nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA): a potent antioxidant which has been reported to demonstrate anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory effects4. As it prevents the oxidation of oil, it may be beneficial to those with oily skin.

Phospholipids: are comprised of of fatty acids which make them powerful humectants. This means that they are able to protect the dermal layer of the skin from external stressors including wind, sun and harsh chemicals by locking in moisture.

Sphingolipids: has the ability to suppress the development of bacteria and fungi which can be beneficial for those experiencing skin conditions such as acne or eczema.

Tripeptide-38: penetrates deep in to the dermis to help boost the production of collagen. It also supports the body's regeneration process, leaving skin firmer, more supple and radiant.

Summary

Pros
  • Broad spectrum, high SPF
  • Clever formulation - anti-ageing, antioxidants, brightening, moisturising 
  • Lightweight texture - similar consistency to lotion
  • Easy to apply and blend out
  • Doesn't leave a film or a visible white/grey cast
  • Doesn't pill under makeup
Cons
  • Takes several minutes to absorb fully
  • Contains BHT which is a controversial ingredient
  • May not be suitable for those easily irritated by citrus oils

Sunscreen is the last step of your skincare routine and the first step of your makeup routine
 
Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide (4.9%) Zinc Oxide (4.42%), Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Coconut Alkanes, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Melatonin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Glycolic Acid, Sodium PCA, Zinc PCA, Oleanolic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acrylates/Carbamate Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, BHT, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Isohexadecane, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Propanediol, Stearic Acid, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Tromethamine, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil

References
1 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3673383/
2 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4587894/#B37
3 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3583885/
4 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3596923/